coming home by white moonlight.
These words were penned in the early 1900s by Daniel Varoujan, an Armenian intellectual who would lose his life in 1915 during the Turkish conflict. Nearly 100 years later, I have walked in his footsteps, coming home in white moonlight. Last night, as I returned to Jay's apartment for the last night of my visit, I was bathed by the full moon in a clear Armenian sky. It was appropriate that the moon should light so bright a path over such a beautiful city that has left a little more light in my heart. This country, its people, and the amazing Jay Treloar have made the last week one of great adventure and great joy. I am left a little tired from it, but I simply don't care.
Jay and I spent my last night in Armenia driving back from Gyumri after a long day with director Braden King. Braden and his wife were easy to talk to and the day was a success, even if they did have to rewind 7 reels of film by hand and nothing ran on schedule. The people of Gyumri were alive with questions for Braden and they were openly moved by an American film showcasing their beautiful country. They understand the richness of this nation, even if most of the world does not. After the screening and Q&A, we decompressed with pizza and began the long drive home. That's when the real fun started!
Jay and I came home singing and dancing (maybe safer when NOT driving, but whatever), carried our singing into the streets of Yerevan and capped off the evening at the magical fountain in Republic Square that dances to music on its own with colorful lights. It really is a show. It was a joyous night. And so is all my time with Jay. I really appreciate those people in my life with whom I can have serious conversations and still be an absolute goof. I am so glad that I came here to see my friend. Our visit alone would have been worth the journey, but Armenia offered me so much.
I have spent the last week laughing and dancing (until almost 5 in the morning), meandering through streets filled with history, standing in darkened doorways of monasteries that dot the country, and listening to a people who remember the pain of the past but are so filled with hope for the future. These are a kind people, and even though they are prone to rather uncomfortable bouts of staring, they are open and hospitable and welcoming to strangers, which is great since I couldn't communicate! I quickly became painfully aware of how bad my Russian is when I realized that I don't even remember the letters. I could have survived here with Russian, even knowing no Armenian, but alas, it was not to be. Eva Eikhorn, my college Russian professor, would be so disappointed. I was forced to get by with smiles and the kind help of people I met in the street or on my tours.
Tours are something new for me. I never do tours when I travel, as they are usually expensive and slow and crowded. None of this was true here. With Jay gone most of the time at work, I had to occupy myself. This proved a little more difficult in Armenia than in Germany, so I turned to the Hyur tour group. I purchased two 8-hour English language tours for only $18 each (WOW) and got to see beautiful Armenia outside of Yerevan. I am so glad that I did it. Not only did I see a lot of breathtaking country and explore beautiful monasteries, I also met some travel companions, particularly a husband and wife from Lebanon who danced with me by a river to live music and helped me go shoe shopping (I broke my good ones). They were long and wonderful days.
Add to that a hike to Havuts Tar Vank with Jay, the exquisite Garni Temple (and Juliete), the Symphony of Stone, a seriously crazy birthday party, a lot of music, a lot of dancing, a little U.S. Women's Soccer (hooray!), an art market, a fruit market, a visit to an Armenian home, a film festival, more apricots and cherries than any human should consume in a week, new foods, new friends, and a delicious fish named Hripsime. Yup, it was an eventful week. I leave it all with a song dancing in my head (dirty bit) and prepare myself for a few days in Prague.
More good things to come if I can survive an 11+ hour layover in Kiev, Ukraine. Here goes nothin'! Goodbye Armenia. Goodbye Jay. I will miss you both very much.
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